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Gay History in Paris

oscar wilde tours paris

More gay history notes for gay travelers.  I don’t think that most Americans associate Paris with gay history, but it is one of the richest cities for gay history, as it is for all other kinds of history.  In fact, Paris is the only city that offers a whole series of gay history tours:  Paris Gay Village’s “visites inverties” (inverted tours).  They are only offered irregularly and in French, but Oscar Wilde Tours will always include them (with translation of course) in our Paris tours.

Gertrude Stein and Alice Toklas' joint grave, with a Paris gay village walking tour group
Gertrude Stein and Alice Toklas’ joint grave, with a Paris gay village walking tour group

James Baldwin’s Paris

For instance, you can follow James Baldwin and other LGBT expats on our walking tour of the left bank.  Nowadays Americans associate Paris with romance:  it’s a place you go to  bill and coo, inspired by certain Classic movie views.  But that is not the way Americans (or Brits or Irishmen) saw Paris from the 1860s to the 1950s.  For Americans of the Belle Epoque, the lost generation, post-War writers, etc. Paris was not about love, but sex.

It was a slummy city of artistic and intellectual ferment, and freedom from the sexual and racial repression(s) of home.  For gay people, this derived from one simple fact:  unlike American or British law, the Code Napoléon did not ban same-sex relations.  This did not mean that it was always OK to be gay.  Certainly, gay sex and identities were frowned upon.  And the police could and would arrest people for any kind of public sexual behavior, which could simply be prosecuted as an offense against public decency.  But sentences were not severe, and above all, sex in private was not criminalized.

It was this freedom that brought Oscar Wilde to Paris after his release from prison.  This same freedom brought a long list of Lesbian intellectuals and writers to Paris over the years, including Gertrude Stein and Alice Toklas, Djuna Barnes, the New Yorker’s Janet Flanner, and Wilde’s mysterious niece Dolly.  And the situation was still the same when James Baldwin came to Paris in 1948.  See the New York Times on Baldwin’s left bank haunts:  James Baldwin’s Paris.

cafe_de_flore_paris
The Café de Flore in the Boulevard St. Germain

And join Oscar Wilde Tours’ gay history tours for a coffee at one of his—and Wilde’s—favorite cafés!

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November 2, 2026

Andrew (Lear) and his team put together an amazing 10-night tour of northern Italy, from Milan to Verona to Venice. The food was plentiful and, wonderfully tasty. Our hotels were comfortable and in the most perfect locations for exploring. The local tour guides knew their stuff and, added to the beauty that is Italy (wink).

And, the other 14 folks that made up our group were amazingly kind and, so fun to spend time with. We were from all over the globe but, you would have thought we’d known each other forever they way we were laughing each morning at breakfast.

In 35 years together, we’ve never traveled with a tour group and, we’ve never visited Italy. While I could have used a few more benches to rest on, I wouldn’t have missed this tour and, these folks for any reason. I’m glad we trusted our travel to Andrew and Oscar Wilde Tours!–Louis Sellers (Portland)

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andrew
November 2, 2026

Lovely trip with access to several sights I would never have seen, and at least one I did not know existed. The meals included were excellent and often enough at luncheon to obviate the need for a later meal. Andrew is a treasury of information, personal stories, and is a reliable river of patience when the inevitable travel glitches occur. He is an incomparable raconteur. Nearly seamless small group travel experience. –John B

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andrew
November 2, 2026

This was a fabulous trip. Andrew Lear does a wonderful job, with a great selection of places and activities and so many insights into LGBTIQ history and culture. Accommodation was good, some amazing food and a lovely group of travelling companions. Venice was an absolute dream. –Deborah H

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andrew
November 2, 2026

I travel frequently but this was my first guided group tour. The tour was right up my alley because of its focus on gay art history and culture. It also explores places I have never been to and probably won’t on my own.

I have predictable apprehensions. One difficult participant can possibly ruin the experience for the entire group. I am naturally independent and would this scheduled excursion be a right fit for me? What if the tour is just another repackaged ordinary tour disguised to be more of an intellectual exploration? The road less travelled which the tour emphasizes may well be so because they are of little interest to begin with.

Just within the first day and all my concerns were put to rest. The group is small enough to make personal connections effortlessly and just large enough to offer a smorgasbord of life experiences to share. Andrew was patient and I am in awe at his ability to gather the troop together effortlessly although it is obvious that a lot of complicated planning went behind putting it together.

New friendships developed quickly. Everyone fell into their own groove rather smoothly helping each other navigate the adventure so no one is ever left alone or behind. The sightseeings are amazing but ultimately it was the camaraderie that is most special and memorable.

As one of few in the group who literally lives in the opposite side of the world in South East Asia, I felt naturally welcomed and relaxed. Most of all, I felt I belong and had a great time. To all out there who may be apprehensive about joining this group because of perceived differences of race, culture, geography and interests….throw all that aside.

Being gay, being human, being curious, being through different life experiences….these are the natural glue that make us more alike than different. And certainly this tour manages to harness this advantage that no others I know has.

If you are sitting on the fence wondering if you should join, just go. You will not regret being a part of this quilt that makes the tapestry of life just a little more beautiful and meaningful.–Ek Yong H

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andrew

Travel through gay art and history with Oscar Wilde Tours.

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