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The Queer Side of Spain: Passion, Persecution, and the Artists Who Defied Tradition

gay Spain art history tour

Spanish culture has a reputation for being macho, but if you look at its macho traditions….just how far are bullfighters making tightly choreographed moves in their sparkly costumes from looking…over-the-top…possibly gay?

Well, I don’t want to argue that Spanish culture is inherently queer, but certainly several of its greatest artists have been gay and had a similar kind of over-the-top highly dramatic aesthetic—imbued with the tortured, melodramatic spirit of flamenco.

The connection to flamenco is constant and explicit in the work of Federico Garcia Lorca (1898-1936) who is probably Spain’s greatest modern poet and also one of great gay martyrs:  he was assassinated by fascist forces at the beginning of the Spanish Civil War as a result of his socialist politics and his homosexuality, and his corpse was buried in an unmarked grave—never to be found again.

And his most explicitly gay work almost vanished as well.  Lorca’s *Sonetos del Amor Oscuro *(Sonnets of Dark Love) were never published until the 1980s, and only after pressure was brought on his family, who wanted to keep them concealed.

And only a few pages survive of the novel Lorca started to write in 1936 about a young gay man who is blackballed at a club because of his homosexuality.  But this year a movie inspired by it came out in Spain, called (like Lorca’s unfinished novel) *La Bola Negra* (The Black Ball).  It won Best Director at the Cannes Festival and will be released in the USA in October 2026.

Speaking of movies, Spain’s other most famous gay artist is film director Pedro Alomodòvar (1949-).  Almodòvar’s aesthetic is extremely campy, and there are many LGBTQ+ characters, relationships, and themes in his movies.  Already in 1987, his *La Ley del Deseo *(*The Law of Desire*) was about a gay love triangle, one point of which was played by the then not yet famous Antonio Banderas—but probably its most famous queer moment is when the great actress Carmen Maura, playing the main character’s transsexual sister, tells a street cleaner to hose her down to cool her off in the sweltering heat.  But there are many other gay-themed Almodòvar movies, including most recently *Strange Way of Life* (2023)—one of the most explicitly gay Westerns.

Both of these artists are very closely connected to their home cities, Lorca to Granada and Almodòvar to Madrid (and especially to Madrid’s gayborhood, the Chueca). Want to find out more?  Come on Oscar Wilde Tours’ LGBTQ+ history and art tour of Spain, with all of Spain’s famous sights (the Sagrada Familia, the Prado, the Alhambra etc), plus as always with our tours, special LGBTQ+ sights and tours, including an Almodòvar tour of Madrid and a Lorca tour of Granada!

November 2, 2026

Andrew (Lear) and his team put together an amazing 10-night tour of northern Italy, from Milan to Verona to Venice. The food was plentiful and, wonderfully tasty. Our hotels were comfortable and in the most perfect locations for exploring. The local tour guides knew their stuff and, added to the beauty that is Italy (wink).

And, the other 14 folks that made up our group were amazingly kind and, so fun to spend time with. We were from all over the globe but, you would have thought we’d known each other forever they way we were laughing each morning at breakfast.

In 35 years together, we’ve never traveled with a tour group and, we’ve never visited Italy. While I could have used a few more benches to rest on, I wouldn’t have missed this tour and, these folks for any reason. I’m glad we trusted our travel to Andrew and Oscar Wilde Tours!–Louis Sellers (Portland)

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andrew
November 2, 2026

Lovely trip with access to several sights I would never have seen, and at least one I did not know existed. The meals included were excellent and often enough at luncheon to obviate the need for a later meal. Andrew is a treasury of information, personal stories, and is a reliable river of patience when the inevitable travel glitches occur. He is an incomparable raconteur. Nearly seamless small group travel experience. –John B

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andrew
November 2, 2026

This was a fabulous trip. Andrew Lear does a wonderful job, with a great selection of places and activities and so many insights into LGBTIQ history and culture. Accommodation was good, some amazing food and a lovely group of travelling companions. Venice was an absolute dream. –Deborah H

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andrew
November 2, 2026

I travel frequently but this was my first guided group tour. The tour was right up my alley because of its focus on gay art history and culture. It also explores places I have never been to and probably won’t on my own.

I have predictable apprehensions. One difficult participant can possibly ruin the experience for the entire group. I am naturally independent and would this scheduled excursion be a right fit for me? What if the tour is just another repackaged ordinary tour disguised to be more of an intellectual exploration? The road less travelled which the tour emphasizes may well be so because they are of little interest to begin with.

Just within the first day and all my concerns were put to rest. The group is small enough to make personal connections effortlessly and just large enough to offer a smorgasbord of life experiences to share. Andrew was patient and I am in awe at his ability to gather the troop together effortlessly although it is obvious that a lot of complicated planning went behind putting it together.

New friendships developed quickly. Everyone fell into their own groove rather smoothly helping each other navigate the adventure so no one is ever left alone or behind. The sightseeings are amazing but ultimately it was the camaraderie that is most special and memorable.

As one of few in the group who literally lives in the opposite side of the world in South East Asia, I felt naturally welcomed and relaxed. Most of all, I felt I belong and had a great time. To all out there who may be apprehensive about joining this group because of perceived differences of race, culture, geography and interests….throw all that aside.

Being gay, being human, being curious, being through different life experiences….these are the natural glue that make us more alike than different. And certainly this tour manages to harness this advantage that no others I know has.

If you are sitting on the fence wondering if you should join, just go. You will not regret being a part of this quilt that makes the tapestry of life just a little more beautiful and meaningful.–Ek Yong H

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andrew

Travel through gay art and history with Oscar Wilde Tours.

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